Let's go! We're ready!
We have our passes on our jackets. We have new boots bought and bindings mounted. Nick has new skis picked-out which we will pick-up next week. We have scored free lift tickets. New ski movies have been purchased and watched. We are four issues deep in Powder. They have all been read cover to cover to cover and back to cover again!
We are ready. All we need is snow.
En Francais: The Big Boob!
When you are down in the valley known as Jackson Hole, there is one thing that commands your attention above everything else: the massive piece of rock called the Grand Teton.
Sure, the entire range is spectacular, sharp jagged peaks made even more impressive by the lack of foothills, but it’s that big one - the Grand that one is really drawn to with feelings of awe and respect. When you are a kid and think of what mounains should look like - that’s the perfect mountain vision you get in you head - quite triangular, sometimes purple - with snow as strak contrast. So beautiful you can stare at it for hours - days - years - a lifetime… Every time I am in the Hole, including this summer’s trip, I just couldn’t take my eye off the Grand!
And when you are there staring at it, it seems like it would be impossible to climb - much-less ski. But for some reason back in 1971, Bill Briggs decided to call the Grand a ski run. So in June of that year he climbed to the summit solo and linked some of the most historic turns in the history of skiing. He single-handidly started the sport of ski mountaineering in North America.
What can I say, the guy’s a stud. If you want the whole story, watch the movie STEEP - the story of that epic feat is the best part of the film - and the old guy recounting his tale is trly inspiring.
Ever since I heard about how he was the first guy to ski the Grand I considered Bill Briggs a superhero. Then, a few years ago, I saw a picture of Briggs playing his banjo with Bob Dylan. My reaction? “Holy crap! A kid from Hibbing got to hang-out with Bill Briggs!?!?! That is soooo cool! Robert Zimmerman is sooo lucky!”
The Center of the Universe.
After riding the tram back down to the base, the boys and I took a little walk round Teton Village. Even in the relatively short 15 years that I have been visiting the ski area, I have noticed many changes. Mostly none for the better. Where there were very few buildings in the village back in 1993, the development has accelerated at a sickening rate. I was just about to come to terms with most of it until I noticed something very horrid. There was one of those disgusting fancy-schmancy big hotels blocking the view of the mountain from the Hostel X - Jackson’s most hallowed institution!
I was livid.
Immediately, I charged into my beloved Hostel and asked the clerk “when did they put up that stupid hotel blocking our view?!?! The kid at the desk explained that it went just the past year but assured me that the Hostel was not going anywhere.
That made me feel a little bit better.
But it also enraged me thinking of how it felt, getting up in the morning, and walking out to the balcony in our long underwear, staring at the mountain while listening to the low booms of the avalanche guns. You look through the steam of your breath, the whole day ahead of you on the greatest mountain on the continent. Now, you’ll just stare at some rich dweebs putting on their one-pieces through their windows.
Not that I’m bitter or anything.
But the Hostel is the soul center of the North American ski community. Built in the 60s, it’s where Benny Wilson, founder of the legendary Jackson Hole Air Force, grew-up. Originally, i was caled the Hostel X because each room would cost $10. It’s not much more today.
When I first stayed there in 1993, the ad in the Jackson Hole lodgin guide bragged about “sparkling white sheets and enormous quantities of hot water!” What else do you need? Well being withing a shot walk of the tram dock doesn’t hurt - and a very soulful group area downstairs with big couches to watch classic ski films (on a FILM PROJECTOR!!!) ping pong,ski waxing area, pool table, tons of board games - it’s skitopia!!! It’s where in 2000, after telling Smooth Rider we would be in Jackson in a week, we pulled-in after a week in Montana only to find his truck in the lot and my Giants Ridge buddy relaxing on the couch! No if that doesn’t make it a magic place, I don’t know what does!
At any rate, after whining about the stupid hotel in the way with the staff, I took the boysfor a tour - showing them a place where we would rest our weary bones after epic days to come…
Nick and Jackson atop Rendezvous Peak, Jackson Hole.
I’m sure I have mentioned it before, but Jackson Hole, Wyoming is a very special place to me. In the summer of 1987, after my second ski season, my family took a camping trip out west, and it was then I first layed my eyes on the Teton range. When I learned there was a ski area up on those incredible peaks, I was astonished that they were skiable. I also vowed that I would ski there myself someday.
Then during Christmas break 1993-94, my old high school ski buddy Matt Bolang and I made our first ski trip west - to Jackson Hole. It changed my life.
Through the years, all the raddest photos in all the ski magazines would usually be captioned “location: Jackson Hole” I learned about the fabled Jackson Hole Air Force (by the way, if you havent seen film Swift Silent Deep yet - BUY THAT MOVIE!!) Everything about Jackson was bigger and badder than my wildest dreams! And every time I hav returned I have been humbled and have had the time of my life.
Don’t get me wrong, I have loved all my trips to places like Whister, Utah, Montana, Tahoe and Alaska, but Jackson is the holy land - th center of th North American skiing universe. The center o my skiing soul.
Ever wonder why my son Jackson is named “Jackson?!?”
The Johns boys - Jackson Hole Tram, August.
What!?!?! Well, what do you call summer? I call it training and time t get yourself rested and properly psyched-up for the next winter! There are many thing that happen for skiers in the summer. First and foremost, you can just keep skiing! New Zealand and South America have great places to ski during our summer! Plus, closer to home, places such as Mt Hood, Whistler, Mammoth, Arapahoe Basin and more are open for skiing well into the summer months - many have camps where you can go to learn new skills.
But if you DO want to take the summer off from skiing, there’s plenty to do to keep your body in shape for the slopes. I think that inline skating on a cool summer morning is as close as you can get to skiing - carving down a smooth trail,you can close your eyes and almost feel snow beneath your feet! Also, hiking is a great way to keep your legs, lungs and core in great shape as well as your balance and footwork. Plus, yu can be out in pistine wilderness environments which is part ofte reason we love skiing.
You can also do as the boys and I did this summer and make a summer pilgrimage to places in skiings holy land. On an August tour of great western National Parks this summer, we were stoked to make it to Teton Village, Wyoming and ride Jackson Hole’s new tram during its first year of operation! The boys were estatic, getting to ride the legendary lift they had seen so often in ski films. And I was very pleased to see the new “red heli” was just as cool as the old one - jut a little bigger. It still inspires the same excitement - that you are on the greatest lift at the greatest ski area in the U.S. Can’t wait to ride iit in the winter!!!
Well, I thought it might have lasted longer - thought Lutsen would buck-up and last another week. But now it has set-in. The season is over. So we got our end of the season haircuts (it’s against the rules to cut your hair during the season!) and took the passes and lift tickts off the jackets to be placed on the wall of fame. That’s right, except for my very first season (84-85) I have every single pass and lift ticket I have ever used. Every one. That’s thousands and thousands of dollars of skiing.
And thousands and thousands of memories.
Next season we shall make some more.
"See ya next winter!"
We took one final run down Placid to the car. It’s always pretty sad making that last run - all the turns you made through an entire season some racing to your mind - all culminating in this one last run to last you until next fall. All the sunny days, all the snowy days, all the bitter cold days, all the slushy days, all the jumps, all the bumps, all the nights of looking at your shadow from the lift, all the early mornings drinking coffee on th way to the hill, all the great smiles from friends and family, all the hi-fives, all the wipe-outs, all the trips to explore new mountains, all the days spent on your home hill - all the magical moments that make skiing, well, skiing - the greatest sport on this planet.
So we yee-hawed that last run, stuck our landings, and made that final turn of the year, clicked out of our bindings, threw some hi-fives, turned around and said our goodbyes to our winter home.
Flipping the 2008-2009 Ski Season into History.
Just before Four-thirty on Sunday, April 5, we rode the Sarajevo chair one last time. The same chair that brought us up for our first turns of the year brought us up for the last. We raised our tips, slid off the ramp, and the liftie flipped the chair up on another season…
Huck it up!
Even on the final day the boys and I kept pushing the limits of what we can do on skis. We skied probably the longest day of the season - in fact, we were out so early that we even had to go in and warm Nick’s toes - in April!!! But the day warmed pretty fast and the bumps were nice and soft, the halfpipe and terrain park features were excellent, and we tried to ski every run to say our goodbyes. I actually didn’t get too many photos as we were busy ripping it - experiencing the thrll for one last time. So here’s a great previously unpublished shot of the cliff huck taken from earlier in the year - just another day in the life…
Aaaahhh!!! Those things are expensive!!
Not only did we see some broken people on closing day, but we ended-up with some gear casualties as well! Nick’s been using these awesome Leki trekking poles his whole skiing career! That way we just adjust the length every year as he grows. Pretty conveniant!!! But as we came to the bottom of one of our runs we noticed everything from the basket down was missing! Guess we’ll have to pick up some supplies at Midwest Mountaineering in a couple weeks!